• Palmer Harding RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding said they want to dress their women for 11 o'clock on a Tuesday morning. “Why does it always have to be a Friday night party? You still want to feel special for the busier parts of the day,” the designers mused during a showroom walk-through.
    The brand put some twists on the classic working wardrobe, cinching, gathering and twisting blazers and shirts. The latter, a mainstay of the brand, came in stripes, asymmetric cuts and crisp whites with embroidery on waists and collars. For a subversive twist, they added buckles to the lapels of blazers and introduced...
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  • Erdem RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Erdem Moralioglu returned to the National Portrait Gallery with this lavish, embellished collection that took its cues from the young Cecil Beaton. Moralioglu lingered on the early years in particular, when Beaton was a boy discovering photography, dressing up his sisters and posing them against dramatic, homemade sets.
    The collection was an homage to Beaton's glam, aristo looks and the collection was nothing less than rich, with more pearls, brocade, glossy surfaces and silvery shine than in the closets of Buckingham and Kensington palaces combined. Snappy, flower print Forties style...
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  • JW Anderson RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    This ho-hum season has been short on fresh silhouettes and fashion thrills. Enter Jonathan Anderson, who churned out new shapes and eye-catching embellishment with the ease of crumpling an aluminum beer can - incidentally, one of the more offbeat references in his fabulous fall collection.
    “Making an entrance” was the benchmark Anderson set for each of his exits - and a gold or silver beer-can dress, the fabric swirled into a cocoon, is about as literal as it gets for a conversation-starting cocktail number. Its balloon-shaped skirt was a leitmotif that looked terrific across satin...
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  • MM6 Maison Margiela RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Held in the empty lot next to the BFC show space, the venue spanned the entire ground level, but could hardly accommodate all the guests eager to see the result of the avant-garde house's work with the outerwear brand.
    “We wanted to get across the idea that we're a ready-to-wear brand and a city brand and we think The North Face is urban clothing, so we wanted to create this environment of where the real people and models could collide,” said the creative team of MM6 of the show experience.
    The venue was split into four rooms and models walked from a simulated “backstage” area into a...
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  • Huishan Zhang RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Huishan Zhang is among the lucky few who managed to get his collection done before the Chinese New Year and fly back to London in time for fashion week before travel restrictions were imposed.
    For fall, he moved away from his usual Chinese movie references, and dived into the glamorous city life of the Nineties depicted in “Sex and the City.” That meant big shoulder cocktail dresses, but the standouts were an asymmetrical gray jacket dress and a hot pink gown. A balloon shaped dress with chiffon flower embroidery was a new shape for him.
    WWD Critique: “Sexy” is a new word for Zhang and may...
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  • Christopher Kane RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    “It was saucy knickers, that's what it was, let's be honest,” Christopher Kane said of the starting point of his fall 2020 collection.
    Ever the provocateur, Kane began his design process by playing around with lingerie. The triangular shapes that define the scantiest of panties sparked his imagination and got him thinking about the story of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden as “a love triangle between man, woman and nature,” as well as ancient symbolisms of the triangle as the eye of God looking over the universe. “It has this amazing, menacing, devilish point to it,” the designer...
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