• Snow Xue Gao RTW Fall 2018

    10 monthes ago - By WWD

    Snow Xue Gao's third collection displayed a bold curiosity for experimentation and taking advantage of the freedom being a new designer allows. Amplified proportions balancing men's tailoring against traditional qipao pajama dressing held gender-ambiguous undertones, which has been the designer's aesthetic proposition thus far.
    For spring, she found inspiration in Manhattan Chinatown's blend of Chinese culture and modern city grit. While that collection was more tame at the behest of her sales team, her fall lineup unleashed a subversive sense of distortion. She manipulated structured...
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  • Yigal Azrouël RTW Fall 2018

    10 monthes ago - By WWD

    Yigal Azrouël is reflecting on his 20 years in business. The designer plays on ideals of the masculine and feminine, oftentimes balancing seduction against tailoring. He delved into his archive for fall, extracting favorites only to deconstruct them into new and modern silhouettes that play on texture.
    These boasted Azrouël's eye for editorialized fabric combinations. Nothing seemed excessive or too heavy. A leather patch was sewn atop a streamlined plaid skirt or combined with burnt orange knitwear in a casual jacket; the knits appeared elsewhere as detachable sleeves to a sleek black...
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  • Marina Moscone RTW Fall 2018

    10 monthes ago - By WWD

    After a few seasons of one-on-one appointments, Marina Moscone felt that her brand was ready for the next step: a formal NYFW presentation at the High Line Hotel. But the intimacy of an appointment wasn't lost; one could have sat all day listening to the Keystone State Boychoir sing renditions of The Pixies and David Bowie while surrounded by a collection of garments meant to be swaddled and wrapped up in.
    After spending last autumn in the mountains of Italy, where she spent summers as a child, Moscone designed an uber cozy and texturally rich collection for fall. “Everything was so crisp...
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  • Red Valentino RTW Fall 2018

    10 monthes ago - By WWD

    The rich, multicultural heritage of the Balkans served as inspiration for Red Valentino's fall collection, with designer Pierpaolo Piccioli incorporating military references and folk touches in a pretty, charming lineup for hip city girls.
    Vintage Soviet Army uniforms informed the outerwear, including an impeccable double-breasted coat featuring a delicate ruffle at the edge and a chic cape punctuated by gold buttons. Their quite rigorous look was balanced by the feminine micro floral prints, echoing Eastern European peasant dresses, that were splashed on frocks with discreet sheer...
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  • Rag & Bone RTW Fall 2018 Review

    10 monthes ago - By WWD

    Rag & Bone's fall lineup brought back details from its origins: men's tailoring and military-inspired touches were combined with the brand's “iconic Englishness” in the women's wear. Men's wear-inspired silhouettes were abundant, like a check-print blazer shirt paired with an unlined, tailored utility jacket and the brand's latest women's sneaker. The Rag & Bone girl's focus remains on “iconic pieces” - a great morning coat, classic knits and athleticwear, like a royal blue puffy jacket.
    For the men's collection, Wainwright also continued to zero in on signature staples. Utility and...
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