• Officine Générale Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    Pierre Mahéo is sticking to his guns. “I don't need and don't want mass,” he insisted in his show notes - a candid letter addressed to friends. He's not having any of that forced-inspiration business either.
    So the designer delivered a soothing lineup of his mainstay: smart, contemporary and handsome, easing his audience into a comfortable spot on a cold and dripping Sunday morning.
    Outerwear came in layers. For the women: a thin, checked trench hung over a thicker, double-breasted coat in blue, of the same length, just below the knees - paired with a tight miniskirt and bare legs. A suit...
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  • Dunhill Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    “It's more of a complete message. It's important for us to be in Paris, to have the exposure and the audience,” said Dunhill creative director Mark Weston, who looked at brand references and advertising from the late Seventies and early Eighties. He lauded the period because “guys really cherished wearing clothes.”
    Through that retro lens, the designer put the house codes like leather and masculinity front and center. He remained faithful to the tailoring essence of the brand while injecting a relaxed sporty attitude.
    This was a wardrobe for the kind of guy who can confidently pull off a...
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  • Lanvin Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    Lucas Ossendrijver, in one of his strongest collections yet, embraced the season's protectionist spirit for his turn navigating the Lanvin ship, with the fate of the beleaguered house still hanging in the air.
    Tumbling tailoring and activewear references, the designer layered utilitarian padded vests and ponchos over coats and suits in a range of classic, striped gray cool wool suiting fabrics.
    Cool roomy multimedia parkas sported the word “Someday” at the back.
    There were elegant plays on plaids and checks in a characteristic mish-mash of ideas, with Ossendrijver injecting strong staple...
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  • Y-3 Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    New sneaker debuts at Y-3 included the Bynder with a leather upper and hand-stitched elements, and the BYW basketball silhouette. But the big news was the new Carbon 4-D technology used on some of the soles.
    Backstage, Nic Galway, senior vice president of global design at Adidas Originals, joined by Yohji Yamamoto, described Carbon 4-D as “almost growing sneakers from liquid.”
    “We've had this period of 3-D printing, but with how things are evolving, Adidas - closely linking itself with partners - really is at the cutting edge of innovation,” he said, explaining the process as the sole of...
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  • Enfants Riches Déprimés Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    “It's just a pastiche of different things I am into,” said Henri Alexander, in describing the inspiration for his fall collection. “I feel like I got into this kind of Bauhaus, Twenties, Thirties, Forties aesthetic this season with Rauschenberg-style graphics and even Kandinsky paintings with the checkers.”
    He added checker motifs were Ska influenced, as well, and that his brand - whose name in English means Depressed Rich Kids - has an ongoing relationship with chessboards à la René Magritte or Marcel Duchamp. Throw in the music Alexander likes, a touch of Fifties fashion silhouettes and...
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  • Paul Smith Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    Paul Smith channeled several of his youthful obsessions - Sixties couture and the psychedelic pop scene - in his men's fall collection, which he showed alongside women's looks.
    But there was nothing backward-looking about the display, held in a raw industrial space in the Cité de la Mode et du Design. The looks, which fused precise yet wearable tailoring with saturated color, made a powerful argument for dressing up in an era when bathrobes count as outerwear.
    The opening look, an austere black coat with satiny pleats down one side, set the bar in terms of cut and technique. Backstage...
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  • Kolor Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    Junichi Abe wanted to express a mood, rather than a theme, for fall, playing with what he described as “balance” to deliver an execution that was slightly off kilter. He mixed tailoring fabrics with workwear and sporty elements, playing with cuts and contrasts, highlighting the different textures he played with in a way that engaged the eye and encouraged one to touch.
    By disrupting the equilibrium, he created a new one. This was far from a banal play on clashing styles.
    A baggy tailored jacket in a camel houndstooth check was paired with a black sweatshirt with a felt appliqué logo that...
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  • MISBHV Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    Polish label MISBHV's take on Nineties underground club culture is clearly aligned with the “fuggly” mood of the moment, with a gauche appeal plus an Eastern European undercurrent that makes it just that little bit different.
    The pants were worn slim and straight, contrasting with the streetwear shapes of sweats and T-shirts. High-waisted jeans were adorned with a strip of rubber paint down the side, an example of the importance of graphic design in MISBHV's proposition. Another of these came by way of a printed silk short-sleeved shirt inspired by Jean Arp.
    A green mohair plaid coat was...
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  • Phipps Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    The inaugural collection of Phipps followed founder Spencer Phipps' intention of providing good-looking, sustainable clothing for men in an inclusive sizing range. The designs ran the gamut of a casual lifestyle, from loungewear to outerwear, in muted natural hues.
    “I'm a big National Geographic freak, I love David Attenborough. The idea of using that as a way to have clothing that speaks for your interests, of having educational things,” Phipps said, pointing out fabrics all picked for their sustainable, eco-smart qualities but also their current availability.
    Wool was woven from natural...
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  • Sacai Pre-Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    Having whetted appetites with a handful of silhouettes dotted in Sacai's fall men's wear show, Chitose Abe unfurled her hybridization across her pre-fall women's collection as well.
    And it's not just about synchronizing calendars either. There was an added three-dimensional aspect to these clothes that could be attributed to the many more categories available in women's wear, but also to how much could be said on the subject by someone whose belief in it is unshakeable.
    It was a winter wardrobe revisited with feminine touches and luxuriant materials that could see plenty of wear in cold...
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  • Brioni Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    “It was important to show who the Brioni man is today, to come quite near to these personalities and to feel it,” said Nina-Maria Nitsche at the house's presentation, where a series of installations presented a cross-generational cast of “real” men from across the global to embody the Brioni universe, photographed at their homes in pieces from the collection.
    “It's not about a nationality or a kind of physique. It's deeper than that, it's a man who is independent, who is not influenced by trends, he has his own opinion about things,” said Nitsche, who worked within the classic tailoring...
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  • Sankuanz Men's Fall 2018

    27 days ago - By WWD

    Sankuanz's Shangguan Zhe circles around a vision of post-apocalyptic survivalism, an attitude that resonates with today's ubiquitous utilitarianism in men's wear. For fall, the focus was on technical fabrics - 3M reflective panels, Cordura - to express the idea of an urban struggle. Wardrobe choices swung between toughened performance gear and high-tech hobo - think goth Action Man meets a bottom-rung Scraps rebel right out of Demolition Man. “It's about figuring out what to do for your life, fighting for your life, and to figure out the physical obstacles and everything that may overwhelm...
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