• Balmain: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    4 monthes ago - By 10 magazine

    With menswear an estimated 40% of turnover at Balmain, the pressure is on Olivier Rousteing to deliver. And since taking over the storied French house, and shifting the sexy and glamourous codes to chime with a more couture sensibility, the designer has increased turnover and attracted a whole new raft of celebrity clients. They turn to him every season for his instinctive feel for glamour and fashion: he knows what a female celebrity needs from a dress and a male celebrity from a suit. And then, of course, the rest of us who just want to dress up! Nothing can be left to chance in the red...
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  • Paul Smith: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    Paul Smith: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    4 monthes ago - By 10 magazine

    This Beeston lad has expanded his Paul Smith empire into 70 countries. It's a magic mix of tailoring skills that boils up a special brew of world-beating menswear, and has sold a brand to the world that says “Come on England!”. Potent then that he shows on the day the England team thrashed Panama 6-1 in the World Cup. So for spring, Captain Smith sent a line out of super-skilled looks rooted in Savile Row tailoring. Drop double-breasted jackets and check fabrics were best. Then new wave details like red shoes and a double button jacket in yellow. And a smashing pink jacket the British...
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  • Dunhill: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    Dunhill: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    4 monthes ago - By 10 magazine

    In the Dunhill London flagship store, there is a spa and grooming area; you can buy clothes and have a drink and lunch and so on. If a gentleman's club were a brand it would be this. It's “catered for” and considered. Dunhill understand how a gentleman lives, what he loves; how he dresses. The occasions he has to attend. So where do we stand on the British brand's spring ‘19 collection? The flick-knife pleat-front trousers were immaculate and the ‘80s-style tops - one leather one was as soft as silk - were so well tailored. It's a modern and easy wardrobe, which plays around with the past...
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  • Kenzo: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    Kenzo: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    4 monthes ago - By 10 magazine

    You are requested to “gather and unify” in celebration of the presentation of Kenzo Spring Summer 2019 said the invitation: a mix of men's and women's high fashion, bags, sneakers and shoes from the design duo Umberto Leon and Carol Lim. Since their arrival at the house of Kenzo in 2011, both have continued with their aim of injecting the brand “with a youthful spirit and a sense of fun and cheekiness.” Meeting somewhere between high-fashion and beautifully elevated shopping is the Kenzo of now, and it appeals to a customer fascinated by the brand's “now-buzz”. From their iconic tiger...
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  • Thom Browne Resort 2019

    Thom Browne Resort 2019

    4 monthes ago - By WWD

    Thom Browne took classic tailoring with a preppy edge and put it through his morphing machine, stretching and shrinking proportions to great effect. He said his aim was to take “very classic ideas” and good old American sportswear and re-introduce them in a fresh way.
    Gray school uniform-style blazers were elongated with narrower shoulders and were paired with matching pleated skirts, some with trompe l'oeil waists and hems. Others looked as if they'd been swiped from granny's closet and refitted to sit low and nonchalantly on the hips.
    Other classics were stretched out, too, including...
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  • Alexander McQueen: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    Alexander McQueen: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    4 monthes ago - By 10 magazine

    How do you get suave mid-century Soho boys marching through Jardin du Luxembourg in the middle of Paris? Well, just call Sarah Burton. Her vision of Alexander McQueen Spring/ Summer 2019 was just that - a set of perfectly tailored-up boys, oozing subtle femininity and a laissez-faire attitude. Yes, the word dandy might be totally passé, but these looks embodied the essence of Francis Bacon and John Deakin, both dandies in their own rights. But it wasn't the artist's style that the collection represented. One of the models even sashayed down the catwalk actual canvas, torso out, covered in...
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  • Sacai: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    Sacai: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    4 monthes ago - By 10 magazine

    Nike was on fire at Sacai just. The Japanese brand has got pally with the American sports giant to create an old-school-looking running shoe, quite Cortez - can I get back to you on the exact style - with a wedge insert above the heel. This jutted out. It's a clever move from Sacai and Nike as fashion's mega brands all fight to create their own built-up sneakers and all part of the “dad-trainer” phenomenon: an exercise in printing cash. This was a Nike clear steer away and move on from the bulbous prohibitively expensive sneakers, which have dominated the fashion market for the past two...
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  • Wooyoungmi: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    Wooyoungmi: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    4 monthes ago - By 10 magazine

    To the world of David Bowie for the South Korean cutting-expert and designer Wooyoungmi for her inspiration for spring ‘19. Argues the designer: there is a younger audience learning now of Bowie and his cultural influence, not born at the height of his fame. This “new tribe” of fans reinterprets Bowie's styles, characters and various incarnations and so has Youngmi. Next year sees a new take on tailoring spliced and re-set and now voluminous with a “power shoulder” in window pane checks and large Bowie tribute pointy collar shirts. Key colour? “Glam yellow” a brighter yellow, which, says...
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  • Thom Browne: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    Thom Browne: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

    4 monthes ago - By 10 magazine

    The master tailor takes a trip to a surrealist garden with lawnmower-pushing elves wearing high-waist, grey wool shorts and braces with a matching jacket. Welcome to the magic garden of Thom Browne - a happy place where anything can happen and often does. Watch as clown-a-like characters wearing huge pants and a green fur coat with a giant white lobster walks around slowly for a bit. Then marvel at the shorts with an embroided crab on the crotch. And then consider wearing odd socks just like him. Why not wave at the crowds like that mad elf who lives in a Wendy house on a grass-turf island...
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