• Astrid Andersen Men's Fall 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Andersen brought a Copenhagen chill to her collection, which unfolded in the vast outdoor courtyard of Broadgate Plaza, near Liverpool Street station. She certainly came prepared, placing little disposable glove warmers on each chair for guests, and sending out a lineup of cozy knits and plump fur coats - in addition to lots of pinstripes and hand-painted prints.
    The designer said she wanted to fuse the idea of streetwear with classical tailoring and luxury fur, as the lines between catwalk and street have blurred beyond recognition.
    She worked charcoal pinstripe fabric into karate-style...
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  • Xander Zhou Men's Fall 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Xander Zhou is equal parts excited about and afraid of the future. “In the last year, a lot of inspiration came from my fear,” he told WWD after his theatrical show. “Fear of myself, fear of the world and the future, because I am very excited about the future but at the same time I feel afraid because we don't know what will happen. So this is all about my fantasy of the future and something unreal.”
    Zhou explored the theme of evolution, both from the past and into the future. In an apt example of this, last season he showed men sporting prosthetic pregnant bellies, whereas this time...
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  • Alex Mullins Men's Fall 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    In a not entirely unexpected twist in the gender-bending story still playing out on runways, Alex Mullins showed his fall 2019 collection entirely on female models.
    It made sense. Women's wear retailers have been buying Mullins' men's collections since he first started showing and he felt it was high time he had a say in how that tale was told. “I wanted to take control and allow myself the time to show my vision of my girl instead of other people doing it. Just hashtags on Instagram, you know what I mean?” he said after the show, adding that, with the exception of one pencil skirt, he...
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  • C2H4 Men's Fall 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Yixi Chen imagined the future through the lens of the past, putting herself in the shoes of a 20th-century sci-fi fanatic and projecting a rather bleak outlook. Shades ranged from varying degrees of grays and blues to black, although she managed to inject a few pops of red - in the form of two nylon jackets - to break up the neutral palette.
    She leaned heavily toward utilitarian and sportswear looks with a retro twist, and toned down formal staples such as neckties and button-down shirts by leaving them loose and untucked as layering pieces. There were drawstring tracksuit bottoms aplenty...
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  • Christopher Raeburn Men's Fall 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    To mark 10 years in business, Christopher Raeburn took a look back at the pieces that have defined his brand in the last decade and reworked them with confidence.
    His sporty, utilitarian aesthetic was still there in roomy parkas featuring large cargo pockets, patchwork tracksuits, parachute culottes and puffer jackets, often accessorized with gigantic snoods that reinforced the concept of clothing as protection mechanism, which has been at the core of the brand from the get-go.
    Simply put, Raeburn is sticking to his guns and for good reason.
    His no-fuss, practical approach and commitment...
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  • Per Götesson Men's Fall 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Per Götesson is growing up and looking to marry the simplicity of his Swedish heritage and the nostalgic, makeshift approach that has defined his brand so far with more sophisticated techniques of constructing garments and a more complex approach that's representative of his new London life.
    At times Götesson held on to his younger self, with the ultra-skinny jeans, ripped T-shirts and glass brooches that have been making regular appearances on his runway.
    But elsewhere, the up-and-coming designer explored different territory with elegant tailored looks that came oversized and featured...
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  • Lou Dalton Men's Fall 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Lou Dalton is all about keeping things real. She designs with the men who buy her clothes always in mind, keeping a sense of simplicity and practicality intact.
    Her fall outing was no exception. Dalton delivered a range that oozed coziness: Intarsia knits came in warm, earthy hues and had a handmade feel to them; denim was slightly bleached, and tailoring was relaxed, as in a dark brown wool suit.
    Outfits were accessorized with beanies and oversized scarves in bold patterns, inspiring a warm, cocooning feel, while classic, familiar pieces - striped shirts, check coats, simple T-shirts...
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