• Zero + Maria Cornejo RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    “It's all about strong women,” said Maria Cornejo backstage at her spring runway show. Her inspiration was epitomized in the collection by a print reproducing a work by Chilean artist Gracia Barrios, an abstract pattern consisting of sketched faces of extraordinary international female personalities. The motif was printed, for example, on a fresh cotton top worn with a draped skirt crafted from organic denim, as well as on a maxishirt paired with relaxed cropped pants.
    In keeping with her quintessentially chic aesthetic, the designer delivered a beautiful collection where an unfussy urban...
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  • 3.1 Phillip Lim RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Over the past few seasons, Phillip Lim has flexed his strength for melding references that seem to have less-than-zero in common to suit the nomadic global woman he imagines as his muse. For spring, the worlds of Berber textiles and Courrèges' spacey Sixties collided. Actually, it was more of a friendly merger.
    Instead of piling up as he did for fall, Lim pared down. “Coming from the previous collection where we unpacked a suitcase, I wanted to shed a little bit but keep that nomadic vibe,” he said backstage. The elements he chose to work with from each genre were quite clear. He let the...
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  • Carolina Herrera RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Get happy! That's Wes Gordon's approach at Carolina Herrera. It's also his strategy as he takes on the task of developing the brand's next phase, one that will inevitably involve some degree of casualization.
    “I spent a lot of time thinking about what should Herrera be, what is Herrera?” Gordon said backstage at the New-York Historical Society on Monday morning. “It should be a wardrobe for Mrs. Herrera, for that woman who's not a wallflower, who lives life to the fullest, likes color, has an exuberance...Not overintellectualizing it.”
    Happiness is a good place to start, and Gordon made...
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  • Dennis Basso RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Dennis Basso took his global woman from candy-colored splendor in Cannes for resort to cruising the Mediterranean for spring with a wardrobe influenced by Italian style icon Marella Agnelli. The designer tackled graceful daywear from morning - silky striped pajama sets, complete with broadtail sleeping mask and cashmere pillow; to afternoon, with a nautical-inspired linen day dress and jumpsuit that were fastened with gold buttons or top-stitched white trousers with an embroidered sheer organza top; to evening, with a white leather mini skort with athletic stripes and Basso's take on a...
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  • LaQuan Smith RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    “I wanted to do something different this season - I was inspired by women who commit crimes and I wanted to sensationalize that idea,” LaQuan Smith said coyly backstage before his show. “I thought, ‘What would she wear while she is on the go committing her crimes all out of fun?'”
    But once the lights came up and model Duckie Thot opened the show, the reference was crystal clear as four looks with a black-and-white print of women's mugshots came down the runway. It was a wink-wink to the theme, and looked especially fresh on the opening cowl neck gown.
    Sexy is something you know you'll get...
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  • Zimmermann RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Nicky Zimmermann's ideas for spring started with a naughty old Australian soap opera from the Seventies called “Number 96,” which sounds like the “Melrose Place” of Sydney. Zimmermann's parents wouldn't let her watch it. She reimagined what the cool, confident, sexy tenants at Ninety-Six would wear now, infusing the collection with loads of paisleys on lace mini shifts and billowing dresses with lantern sleeves. There were crop tops and low-rise pants worthy of a latter-day Cher from her Sonny days, and crisp safari suits. What felt newest for Zimmermann were some retro-tinged sporty...
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  • Yeohlee RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Yeohlee's starting reference was a far-reaching point from the impeccably constructed minimalist offering she put out for spring. She began by looking at the pigmentation behind metals and seashells, which led to the color-making process at Harvard's Fogg art museum. That inspired her to inject cheery saffron, ginger and a multicolored checkered print into her typically stark wheelhouse.
    “I think fashion is very informed by the times we live in,” she said after the show. “We're in a very unusual moment and I thought it was a good time for us to celebrate togetherness and unity, and colors...
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