• Herno RTW Spring 2019

    24 days ago - By WWD

    Color is the news at Herno, said Claudio Marenzi, chief executive officer of the Italian outerwear company. A range of reds, from crimson to burgundy; plus fuchsia, periwinkle and kiwi green added a vibrant edge to big parkas and capes.
    As usual, Herno invested in research and materials, with a new waterproof parka made in cotton with a polyurethane coating. Inside, rainbow striped thermo-taped seams completed the look. A drawstring with gold metal details added a feminine touch to the functional garment. An oversize bomber was updated in a new nylon sailcloth that reversed to a taffeta...
    Read more ...

     

  • Philipp Plein RTW Spring 2019

    24 days ago - By WWD

    Never one to live by halves, brash-and-proud Philipp Plein came back to Milan with a bang, his show punctuated by performances from Chris Brown, dance-duo Ayo and Teo, rapper 6ix9ine and the cast of Cirque Le Soir. Plein, who showed his women's collection in New York until this season, booked Rita Ora for the after-party.
    Next year, Plein will mark the 20th anniversary of his label, having started in furniture before shifting into fashion. His spring show, a tribute to Michael Jackson, was a warmup for the big 2019 anniversary.
    “We have a lot going on because that's what people expect from...
    Read more ...

     

  • Seventy RTW Spring 2019

    24 days ago - By WWD

    From business meetings to cocktail events, Seventy creative director Francesca Tegon had busy, contemporary women covered with her spring lineup.
    Rooted in practicality, the collection offered plenty of well-executed city options, spanning from impeccable suits, including a style worked in a lively bubblegum pink tone, and cotton shirtdresses, to more eccentric silk pajama sets splashed with tropical foulard motifs and asymmetric tops printed with a leopard pattern.
    When she kept silhouettes simple and played with solids, Tegon introduced small touches, including delicate ruffles on the...
    Read more ...

     

  • Kiton RTW Spring 2019

    24 days ago - By WWD

    Kiton's women's division is seeing a 20 percent increase in sales, chief executive officer Antonio De Matteis said as he pointed to the collection displayed on a grass patch at Palazzo Kiton. The luxury tailoring company revisited a number of classics such as the blazer, here with contrasting piping and in unexpected textures. The three silk tuxedos were standouts, in an unusual color palette of azure, light yellow and pale jade. A parka with a sheared mink lining that becomes a vest or a napa trench with cashmere and denim details spoke volumes about the research that lies behind this...
    Read more ...

     

  • Roberto Cavalli RTW Spring 2019

    24 days ago - By WWD

    A few weeks ago in an interview with WWD, an American designer recalled how he once told Joan Rivers that all the New York designers met in the basement of Bergdorf Goodman before fashion week to decide what the trends would be. He was joking, of course, but one wonders if there wasn't some sort of secret confab of Italian designers this season wherein they all decided: biker shorts!
    If so, Paul Surridge was in on it. Biker shorts in a range of embellishments and inseams were all over his spring collection for Cavalli, even anchoring some of the lineup's best looks - ruffled tunic tops cut...
    Read more ...

     

  • Daizy Shely RTW Spring 2019

    24 days ago - By WWD

    There's a movement among Milan's newer generation of designers toward frisky frippery, wherein the ultra girly and feminine is tossed with a healthy dose of bad taste. It can work wonderfully when the balance of irony to earnestness is right. Excellent execution is essential as well. Daizy Shely had the right ingredients in her spring show, but her ratios were off.
    “It's very feminine but also very rude,” she said of the lineup backstage. The clothes were in your face in everyway. Brash colors clashed with pastels. There was gingham, cherry prints, ruffled corset tops layered over shirts...
    Read more ...

     

  • Gabriele Colangelo RTW Spring 2019

    24 days ago - By WWD

    Gabriele Colangelo's spring collection was like a cold drink of water on a very hot day - and not just because the weather in Milan has been at high summer temps all week. His colors were coolly vivid, a mix of optic white, indigo, orange, ice blue, jade and khaki, and his lines were an update on clean, Nineties utilitarianism with a slight techno accent.
    White shirts, jackets and slips were treated with artful indigo tie-dye, one of the season's big trends, here done with colors that looked fresh and intense with each other. Sheer slips were layered over pants and plaid shirts for a neo...
    Read more ...