• Christopher Kane RTW Spring 2019

    1 month ago - By WWD

    As female empowerment messages continue to thrum through fashion, trust Christopher Kane to give his a scientific and subversive edge.
    “Sex in nature,” David Attenborough intoned over the throbbing beats as Kane's models stalked the concrete underbelly of the Tate Modern in one of his most glamorous and focused collections to date. It featured prominent shoulders, leggy silhouettes, praying mantis T-shirts - the female sometimes eats her partner after coitus - and more lace crotches than in all the strip clubs of Soho.
    The latter he agglomerated into armor-like bodices on little black...
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  • Roksanda RTW Spring 2019

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Roksanda Ilincic knows how to create clothes that are both elegant and friendly to women.
    For spring 2019, she continued to tell the same story, with a lineup that had ease and fluidity at its core.
    Her signature billowing blouses, flowing satin midi dresses and roomy culottes were back on the runway, updated with lightweight linens and crinkled cotton fabrics - the idea being to mirror the textures on a series of tapestries by famed architect Le Corbusier.
    Ilincic, whose flair for modernism is heavily informed by architecture, was also inspired by the illustration of “beautiful, round...
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  • Delpozo RTW Spring 2019

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Josep Font's focus for spring was that of lightness, in all its connotations, inspired by the bifold inspirations of wisteria flowers and the work of Fifties Murano glass artist Fulvio Bianconi, who began his career making glass perfume bottles and graduated to crafting statement vases and other objects.
    The spectrum of wisteria, from soft white to baby pink, buttermilk and pale lilac, formed the delicate base of the palette, blooming to crimson and fuchsia with flashes of bright apple green. Fabrics like transparent organza, silk tulle and gossamer mohair underscored Font's theme, while a...
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  • Erdem RTW Spring 2019

    1 month ago - By WWD

    The designer returned to the National Portrait Gallery for his spring show, and what a fitting space it was for a collection that was all about identity - and dressing as the ultimate gesture of self-expression. Erdem Moralioglu took as his muses two Victorian men, cross-dressers who were nightlife celebrities and by day lived quietly as sisters.
    Moralioglu handled this history with light touch, and while some of his gowns took a costume-y turn here and there, this remained an elegant outing filled with lots of flowers - in print and embroidery - black velvet and big crinkly bows.
    A blurry...
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