• Vera Wang RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Last season, Tudor England. This season, Versailles.
    The crossing made a world of difference. Vera Wang has recently opted off the runway in favor of appointments at her Paris showroom, while distilling each collection's essence in a short, artful film. Last season, that meant Renaissance-inspired regalia reinterpreted with armorlike cone bras built into most of the clothes. An interesting runway concept, perhaps, only Wang didn't show on the runway, and so the construct confused.
    This season, Wang's shift to the Court of Louis XIV (inspired by some binge-watching of “Versailles”) made all...
    Read more ...

     

  • Issey Miyake RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    “Hands have been weaving, sewing and giving new shape to cloth. Yet, what if we could play with the shape more freely as if kneading dough or molding clay?” the show notes at Issey Miyake asked.
    Never one to shy away from new textile techniques, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae answered the question by creating looks with a new material, dubbed Dough Dough, whose shape can be modulated easily - with a twist or a crumple. One dress or hat may be transformed in a myriad of ways, as the models on the runway displayed with glee.
    Hands also create art, like Issey Miyake's design team did, painting...
    Read more ...

     

  • Alessandra Rich RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Just two years ago, Alessandra Rich's collection felt like the best-kept secret on the Paris circuit. She showed her collection of delightfully gaudy dresses - so tongue-in-cheek, they were chic - by appointment in quiet hotel rooms off the beaten path. But things change in the blink of an eye. In retrospect, it was only a matter of time before the influencers swarmed. Her brand of showy, Instagram-ready and fun fashion is like a beacon for these girls, whom Rich has embraced wholeheartedly. She went beyond dressing them and had them walk her spring show, which opened with the sparrowlike...
    Read more ...

     

  • Les Copains RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Spring marked the 60th anniversary of Les Copains. Rather than belabor the point with a drawn-out retrospective, creative director Stefania Bandiera made her point with refreshing brevity - 21 looks. Framed by a nautical theme, the lineup was done entirely in white and gold. Bandiera showcased the brand's knitwear heritage with soft tailoring, lace, textured cardigans and easy sweaters, most woven with a metallic shimmer and rounded out the offer with sailor pants and blouses. The collection displayed discreet, approachable style with a dash of novelty, the kind of fashion that has kept it...
    Read more ...

     

  • Martin Grant RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    Martin Grant, known for dressing women like Cate Blanchett and Lee Radziwill in his elegantly minimal designs, has an unlikely style icon: Debbie Harry.
    While his spring lineup was built on the refined wardrobe staples that have become his trademark - a perfect white trouser suit, say, or a striped cotton sundress - there was a nostalgic strain of Eighties glamour bubbling up in the shape of frothy party dresses with shoulder-baring tops and poufy skirts.
    Pointing to a dress in black silk organza with sheer stripes, Grant said it was similar to one of the first designs he produced in the...
    Read more ...

     

  • Olivier Theyskens RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    The signatures Olivier Theyskens has been plying over the course of his career were the baseline of his spring show. Victorian gothic romance, wispy lingerie with a grunge attitude, lean trenches, low-slung tuxedo pants and swallowtail gowns done with melancholic drama were all present and accounted for. But so was a new trippy, hardcore energy that brought to mind Berlin's art and underground culture. He brightened and darkened, infusing psychedelic hues into his palette as he ramped up a punk edge by layering shiny harnesses over feminine dresses, working in slick black fabrics and...
    Read more ...

     

  • Each Other RTW Spring 2019

    2 monthes ago - By WWD

    It's the start of a new era for fashion collective Each Other. “We're celebrating our seventh birthday,” said creative director Jenny Mannerheim backstage. The brand reworked its logo, dropped the “x” and decided to “focus on statement pieces: tailoring, evening dresses and sportswear.”
    The collection was punchy and upbeat. Models stomped along the Café Marly with bright smiles on their faces, and colorful graphics on t-shirts were designed by German artist Alina Birkner referencing the Californian sun. There was a lot of hot pink, rhinestones, skin-tight jumpsuits, one-shoulder leotards...
    Read more ...