• HKFG RTW Spring 2019

    18 days ago - By WWD

    For the first time in its six seasons of existence, HKFG, the Hong Kong fashion showcase under the helm of the Fashion Farm Foundation, opted for the presentation format to allow FFixxed Studios and Ka Wa Key to unveil their collection to the public. “Fashion presentations can really let brands showcase their own character,” said chairwoman Edith Law, adding that HKFG felt it had gathered enough attention to switch from the traditional group show to more intimate presentations.
    The three top floors of French newspaper Libération's former headquarters each housed a HKFG event. FFixxed...
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  • Yohji Yamamoto RTW Spring 2019

    18 days ago - By WWD

    Some seeming renegades are genuine; some ride convenient waves of cultural currency. Yohji Yamamoto is in the former camp, unafraid to put his beliefs out there, period, end of story - even when they fly in the face of political correctness. Asked for a soundbite after his show on Friday night, Yamamoto answered, “anti-racism, anti-crazy global-warming.” Truth be told, it was tough to draw even circuitous lines from there back to his runway, save for his beautiful finale that featured five black models.
    What was readily apparent: an obvious, alluring sensuality seldom seen on a Yamamoto...
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  • Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood RTW Spring 2019

    18 days ago - By WWD

    Put the skate girls of Kabul captured by photographer Jessica Fulford-Dobson and the catalogue of contents from the recent Ritz Paris auction into a shaker. Add a pinch of Austrian artist Walter Pichler and American artist Paul Thek, and this is what you get: boy skaters in women's dresses and mules and beefcakes in briefs on mini scooters whizzed about the car park space, an installation of paper clouds and white balloons overhead. It added a streetwear subtext as a jumble of references from the worlds of Andreas Kronthaler and Vivienne Westwood paraded by.
    Art, folkloric wallpaper...
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  • Mame Kurogouchi RTW Spring 2019

    19 days ago - By WWD

    Wisteria violet, blood red and jet black were the main colors of Japanese designer Maiko “Mame” Kurogouchi's second presentation in Paris. “This season, I got inspiration from Shoen Uemura, who painted graceful Japanese women in daily life,” Kurogouchi said backstage. The mauve hues matched the exact tones of Uemura's paintings, while flower prints were crafted to mirror the feel of pressed flowers in a personal diary.
    The collection was regal. Long kimonos with black edges and red satin scarves tied around waists were pleasantly oriental, while stunning black and gold evening dresses...
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  • Kwaidan Editions RTW Spring 2019

    19 days ago - By WWD

    In their first official Paris presentation, Léa Dickely and Hung La of London-based Kwaidan Editions, who were finalists for this year's LVMH prize, sought to alienate the observer with their science fiction-inspired offering inspired by Rainer Werner Fassbinder's “World on a Wire.”
    The setting, David Lynch's Silencio, and the music, with Exotourisme by Dominique-Foerster and Perez performing live, accentuated the sense of estrangement, but perhaps less than the clothes themselves, described by La before the show as almost “sterile.”
    Outsized poplin men's shirts and T-shirts with...
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  • Vanessa Bruno RTW Spring 2019

    19 days ago - By WWD

    Vanessa Bruno gleaned inspiration from the French Riviera for her spring collection. “I wanted to have this really beautiful idea of sunshine, of this kind of freshness, ,” she said.
    The collection was full of vivid hues reminiscent of the region, such as chlorophyll green, fuchsia and orange. For numerous looks, Bruno magnified traditional Provencal prints and injected color for more vibrancy. Striped fabrics nodded to beach chairs.
    The designer sought to create a mash-up of what's contemporary and timeless, and it worked well. Silhouettes for spring - sometimes androgynous - included a...
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  • Drome RTW Spring 2019

    19 days ago - By WWD

    Marianna Rosati crafted an underwater world for spring, peopled with mermaids and ancient statues buried deep below the ocean, only visible through the distortion of the waves.
    Her core register, leather, was thus ruched into ultra-feminine bodice shapes, as on a strapless catsuit in a vivid peacock blue, or ruffled as the straps of a cute pinafore dress in olive green. A mint green leather was given the appearance of a fish's scales on a tailored jacket and matching shorts, while the motif was evoked less literally with iridescent sequins on other looks in a collection dominated by...
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