• Fay RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    The inspiration for Arthur Arbesser's spring collection for Fay was pretty obvious from the presentation set: a picturesque, but not particularly summery, beach scene complete with sand, lifeguard stands and a striped lighthouse in front of a gloomy sky backdrop. He drew on Sylt, an island off Germany in the North Sea, to come up with riffs on classic workwear-inspired outerwear and rain gear for men and women. It was a nice update on tradition - not too far afield from the brand's signatures, including the 4 Hook jacket, without being boring.
    Arbesser recast classic trench coats, workwear...
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  • Fila RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    Thanks to collaborations with luxury fashion labels and cool street designers, heritage sportswear brands are having a moment. Seizing its own, Fila hosted its first runway show in Milan, where the brand also inaugurated a retrospective at the Triennale design museum.
    Tapping into Fila's extensive archives, creative directors Antonino Ingrasciotta and Joseph Graesel delivered a well-executed coed lineup that exalted the brand's expertise in different sport fields. Tennis, swimming, and sailing inspired the collection, which also included an homage to the signature style of Bjorn Borg, one...
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  • Brognano RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    Emerging talent Nicola Brognano, who used to work with Giambattista Valli on ready-to-wear and couture, turned out a fresh and breezy Malibu-meets-the-Mediterranean collection - plus a few poufs of tulle. Models donned lots of yellow and white flower-printed denim, and dresses bursting with 3D blooms. Brognano's couture-ish outerwear stood out, in particular the luscious satin coats with pouf sleeves: A black one had blue and white sporty stripes at the back, while a lavender one had black and white ones. That couture feel spilled onto belted satin jackets the color of lemon cream, a long...
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  • Agnona RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    Creative director Simon Holloway gave himself a straightforward brief at Agnona: a daywear collection based on suits and designed to highlight the rich textile history of the house.
    It was to his credit that within those parameters, he managed to show outfits that appeared both effortless and opulent, due in large part to a mouthwatering palette of toffee and spice tones. Edie Campbell opened the show in a multi-panel trench coat, oversized shirt and baggy pants in caramel-colored vicuna poplin.
    Elongated sweaters and tunics were paired with shorter jackets in striking monochrome or...
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  • Laura Biagiotti RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    Lavinia Biagiotti is mapping out the future for the company she inherited from her mother Laura, and she said she wants it to be “joyful and full of energy.” To that end, her spring collection was a colorful ode to Futurism, her family's passion, as she defined it. The Biagiotti Foundation owns more than 250 Futuristic works and is among the most prestigious collections dedicated to Giacomo Balla. Lavinia Biagiotti reworked details from such masterpieces into patterns on miniskirts, light gauze dresses with ruffles and silk tops. She played with brightly colored stripes, combining them in...
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  • GCDS RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    There were some heavy concepts underpinning this punchy, neon-bright collection, with creative director Giuliano Calza imagining a day when all the computers crash and society has to look back and appreciate the old way of doing things. He worked a bit of dystopia in there, too, with a few “Blade Runner”-style videos and a show set with Greek columns clad in green plastic garbage bags. A collaboration with Pokémon gave the palette and patterns a cartoonish feel.
    Anxiety about the future did nothing to dent Calza's optimism, so the collection was wearable and fun, from the short kilt skirt...
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  • Giorgio Armani RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    What is “The Shape of Color”? Languid, at least when the colors are gentle and aglow with iridescence. So determined Giorgio Armani, who on Sunday, the last day of the Milan collections, sent the fashion pack packing with a lovely, soothing collection.
    While the title of the show might have foreshadowed something bombastic, Armani went contrary to that more obvious expectation. His invitation often hints at his direction and did so here - an image of a fabric piece, its icy pink and silver shadow stripes arranged in soft folds. In fact, silvery gray formed the base of the collection. It...
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  • Marni RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    Francesco Risso is pretty out there. The show notes for his spring collection - titled “Mattress Recipe” and with ingredients including “carmelized magnanimity” and “flambé ferocity (“Serve hot, like an unexpected slap.”) - said it all while amusingly saying nothing. Walking into the venue felt like mattress shopping; Everyone was seated on bed. It was worth waking up for.
    Risso's delightful daffiness translated into the clothes, a collection for stylish, arty wackadoos. A year into his tenure at the Marni, he's found a way to move the oddball charm Consuelo Castiglioni built somewhere...
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  • I'm Isola Marras RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    California inspired plenty of designers in Milan this season. The frisky spring collection that creative director Efisio Marras delivered for the I'm Isola Marras label took the literal route: Prints of palm trees, gas stations, retro cars and lifeguard chairs splashed over striped and gingham patterns on jersey shirtdresses and miniskirts. Postcard-like images depicting landscapes of Venice Beach served as graphics on tunics and sleeveless tracksuits.
    “Literally dreaming California,” Marras said about the collection, which he developed during a trip to Los Angeles last summer. The...
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  • Ermanno Scervino RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    The collection was a study in contrasts: Hard and soft, heavy and light, plain and patterned. Scervino did it all with a delicate touch, and there was something here for everyone - from the bottle green evening gown light as mist, to a chic quilted hoodie coat in olive green. Scervino even sent a few men down the catwalk, showcasing his deft hand at tailoring.
    Sheer dresses were done in white lace and came long and layered, babydoll style or short and off the shoulder. A dark flower print blossomed over Forties-style dresses and minis with handkerchief hems, while a brown leather dress...
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  • RtA RTW Spring 2019

    23 days ago - By WWD

    Eli Azran and David Rimokh brought the urban, rock ‘n roll touch of their RtA brand to Milan with their first official presentation here. The subversive spirit of their collection created an interesting contrast with the baroque palazzo venue.
    Usually rooted in a dark aesthetic, seen in the black leather and vinyl pants, shirts and cycling shorts - omnipresent on the Milanese catwalks - the spring lineup also included orange, electric blue, pale pink and yellow. In terms of designs, the collection was a compilation of what cool city girls wear now, including cropped sweaters, bustier tops...
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