• Zang Toi RTW Spring 2019

    12 days ago - By WWD

    Zang Toi's spring collection was a “fan letter” to Yves Saint Laurent. He traveled to Marrakech with the particular goal of visiting the YSL museum, which was the catalyst for his lineup.
    The references were aplenty, from iconic Mondrian patterns, shown on silk floor-length dresses, cutaway coats and even silk scarves used as head wraps.
    The safari influences were also there, with a cream laced safari tunic dress, black trenches with a zebra print lining and classic safari jacket in off-white paired with wide-leg trousers.
    While Toi's focus may have been too literal, it resulted in a very...
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  • Michael Kors Collection RTW Spring 2019

    13 days ago - By WWD

    Michael Kors believes in the power of positive thinking. “The world is upside down, and I say, kill them with kindness, spirit, joy and charm,” he said during a preview. It's more than a shtick, it's a deeply held philosophy.
    So, too, is knowing his customer. Kors is old-school in that respect; he still believes in client events - yes, trunk shows. “I just did a slew of them,” he said. “Women want joyous, wonderful things that make them smile, but at the same time are not so precious that they put them away in the closet. You have to take the stuffing out of what's indulgent.”
    For spring...
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  • Maryam Nassir Zadeh RTW Spring 2019

    13 days ago - By WWD

    Eclecticism was at the core of Maryam Nassir Zadeh's spring collection. The athleticism was combined with the feminine via cycling shorts paired with a textured spaghetti-strap top, while a mannish vibe was introduced with a suit in a plaid pattern; its look softened by the gentle round collar; a bodysuit with matching corset layered under a trenchcoat exuded pure sensuality.
    Flounced dresses and skirts had a vibrant, charming vibe and a minimal silk dress with a crisscross detail at the neckline embodied metropolitan elegance. An arty vibe was introduced via a ruffled top combining...
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  • Calvin Luo RTW Spring 2019

    13 days ago - By WWD

    The bulk of Calvin Luo's spring collection balanced structured tailoring with feminine accents. He was inspired by the 2008 French movie “Les femmes de l'ombre,” based on the life of Lise de Baissac, an agent of the Special Operations Executive during World War II. Luo found her to be a pioneer of femininity who concealed strength behind glamorous attire.
    He sent out a slew of clean tailoring with little updates - pencil skirts with cutouts to reveal dresses underneath, button-downs with seams that shaped the body, and blazers set with delicate lace around the bust. The sharp structure of...
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